clam chowder

REGARDED AS ONE OF THE GREAT AMERICAN SOUPS, this is rich and creamy, with a delectable savoury flavour from the bacon and clams. The traditional garnish is oyster crackers. In San Francisco, clam chowder is sometimes served in hollowed-out sourdough bread bowls, as a sustaining lunch.

SERVES 4-6

1kg live clams, cleaned splash of dry white wine
1 tbsp olive oil
10Og maple-cured bacon, cut into strips
2 onions, peeled and finely
chopped
2 celery sticks, trimmed (any
leaves reserved) and finely chopped
3 large floury potatoes, about
600g, peeled and finely diced
1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped 30g butter
2V2 tbsp plain flour 500ml chicken stock 200ml double cream
2 tbsp celery leaves, chopped
(optional)
1 bay leafsea salt and black pepper handful of flat-leaf parsley, leaves torn

Heat a large heavy-based saucepan until hot. Tip in the clams, add a splash of wine and cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid. Give it a shake and let the clams steam for 3-4 minutes until the shells have opened.

Tip the clams into a colander set over a large bowl to collect the juices. When cool enough to handle, shell most of the clams, leaving some in their shells for an attractive presentation; discard any that remain closed.

Heat the olive oil in a frying pan, add the bacon and fry for 3-4 minutes, or until crisp. Add the onions, celery, potatoes and garlic to the pan and fry gently for 6-8 minutes until starting to soften.

Add the butter, then the flour and cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes. Gradually add the stock to the pan, stirring constantly. Pour in the cream and the reserved juices from the clams. Add the chopped celery leaves, if available, bay leaf and seasoning. Bring to a simmer and cook for 20-30 minutes until the vegetables are soft and the chowder is thick.

Add all of the clams and warm through over a low heat, stirring, for 2-3 minutes; do not allow to boil. Ladle into warm bowls and serve, sprinkled with parsley.